Reducing Bra Cup Size

I wear a bra as often as I am able but since I am flat chested I usually wear silicone forms in my bras to give some projection. I like the feel of the weight in my bra that the forms give and like to see and feel my “breasts” projecting under my shirt. Sometimes, however, I don’t want to use the forms and just want to feel my bra hugging my bare skin. The problem is that it is very difficult to find a bra that fits my tiny to non-existant breasts, especially one that is pretty and has underwires, which I prefer. Even most AA cup bras have extra space in the cups.

Recently a fellow bra wearer suggested a technique to reduce cup size on a bra by sewing a new seam in the center of the cup. I tried it and my first attempt worked pretty well. For my second attempt I took some pictures to illustrate the process which I share here.

Since I didn’t know how well it would work, I used a well worn bra that I bought at a thrift store, an older Vanity Fair style in a 38B. As this picture shows, the cups are way to big for me:

The first step is to put the bra on inside out and squeeze together the excess material and pin it in place. In my first experiment the new seam I created was horizontal but on this one it worked best  to make a diagonal seam. Here you see the bra on inside out and some pins holding the excess material  together:

I then took the bra off and drew a line with a fabric marker where I wanted to sew my new seam and I repositioned the pins so they would interfere less when sewing it. A complication was the underwire which I had to remove in order to fold the cup over when sewing the new seam. I snipped an opening in one end of the underwire channel and pulled it out:

Then it went on the sewing machine and I sewed the seam following the line I had marked, using a straight stitch. Since there was a lining in these cups I had to take some care to keep all the layers properly lined up:

I then replaced the underwire and sewed closed the opening in the channel. This picture shows the inside of the cup after everything was finished. I could have trimmed away the excess folded over material but chose to leave in in place and I didn’t notice it when wearing the bra:

And here is the final result. Not perfect, but much improved. I took in a little more material in the right cup than the left and it fits a little better but both are much improved. It is a nice feeling to have my bra cups snug against my skin without the extra material flapping around:

I am glad to have discovered this technique and will no doubt use it again. Many of my favorite bra styles are only available in large cup sizes and this will enable me to wear them without forms when I want to do so.